Although this blog is mainly a place for me to journal about my sewing, I also want it to be a gathering place for anyone who loves to sew, especially with vintage patterns. A support group, if you will.
Being the only female in this household, I am sometimes in desperate need of girl talk. I want this to be a place where we are free to discuss not only sewing, but thrifting, beauty, our inspirations, thoughts on modern fashion, etc.
But I think we need to set a few ground rules first, just to make sure that everyone understands what is expected of them.
I hereby give you the ten commandments of the RETROvirus blog:
1. We shall be each other's enablers.
2. We shall whisper sweet nothings in the comments section.
3. We shall encourage each other as we search the thrift shops, antique malls and flea markets.
4. We shall not withhold support for each other's efforts.
5. We shall prop each other up when we are weary from the Battle of Ebay.
6. We shall cheer each other when we use a vintage pattern to create a one of a kind garment.
7. We shall defend each other when we purchase two (or five) more patterns to take its place.
8. We shall always be courteous, even when disagreeing with each other.
9. We shall not withhold tips and advice.
10. We shall share laughter, we shall share tears (and we shall be aware that this may happen simultaneously).
Can I get an amen?
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Haslam Dressmaking System
The Haslam System of Dressmaking is a comprehensive pattern drafting method used to create garments based on one's specific measurements. Using 14 body measurements, you first create your foundation pattern using the Chart and instructions found in the Foundation Drafting Book.
The Chart is similar to a dressmaking/tailor's square and is a template of strategically placed holes, curves, lines and measurements that will (hopefully) enable me to make patterns customized to my body’s measurements.
The foundation pattern is the "base" design. Once the foundation is complete, you can create patterns for any of the garments using the instructions and diagrams in the book.
A little background information:
Haslam is a "chart" system. A chart is a 19th- and early 20th-century term for what we would call a sloper or block pattern. Charts came as a cardboard or wooden set of the most basic pattern pieces in the most common cut for the given era. (Which, by the way, changed periodically, so a chart for one era is likely to have too early or late a cut for another era.)
Usually charts were for bodices, because they required the most fitting, but a few skirt charts were manufactured. The charts had a means of grading the pattern to different standard sizes, usually lines and holes to aid the dressmaker in tracing the right outline and dart placement. Charts were manufactured partly for home dressmakers who made clothes for several different family members, but especially for professional dressmakers without much real training or the time or money to obtain it. In the 19th century, dressmaking was a common fallback profession for women suddenly thrown into the job market by widowhood or orphanhood.
I have the Chart and three Foundation Drafting books - one for the early-mid 1940s fashions, one for mid-late 1940s fashions and Foundation Book 2, which is used mainly in combination with the mid-late 1940s and 1950s Books of Draftings. I will be working my way through the Book of Draftings No. 22 (from the 1950s), which contains draftings for:
fifteen dresses
beach dress
shorts and bikini top
swimsuit coverup top
four suits
four coats
If anyone owns and/or uses this system, I would love to hear from you!
The Chart is similar to a dressmaking/tailor's square and is a template of strategically placed holes, curves, lines and measurements that will (hopefully) enable me to make patterns customized to my body’s measurements.
The foundation pattern is the "base" design. Once the foundation is complete, you can create patterns for any of the garments using the instructions and diagrams in the book.
A little background information:
Haslam is a "chart" system. A chart is a 19th- and early 20th-century term for what we would call a sloper or block pattern. Charts came as a cardboard or wooden set of the most basic pattern pieces in the most common cut for the given era. (Which, by the way, changed periodically, so a chart for one era is likely to have too early or late a cut for another era.)
Usually charts were for bodices, because they required the most fitting, but a few skirt charts were manufactured. The charts had a means of grading the pattern to different standard sizes, usually lines and holes to aid the dressmaker in tracing the right outline and dart placement. Charts were manufactured partly for home dressmakers who made clothes for several different family members, but especially for professional dressmakers without much real training or the time or money to obtain it. In the 19th century, dressmaking was a common fallback profession for women suddenly thrown into the job market by widowhood or orphanhood.
I have the Chart and three Foundation Drafting books - one for the early-mid 1940s fashions, one for mid-late 1940s fashions and Foundation Book 2, which is used mainly in combination with the mid-late 1940s and 1950s Books of Draftings. I will be working my way through the Book of Draftings No. 22 (from the 1950s), which contains draftings for:
fifteen dresses
beach dress
shorts and bikini top
swimsuit coverup top
four suits
four coats
If anyone owns and/or uses this system, I would love to hear from you!
Monday, June 28, 2010
Hello and Welcome
Hello. My name is Dondi and I have been (self) diagnosed with a RETROvirus. I love all things retro with a passion unspeakable and I. DON'T. WANT. TO. RECOVER. (unless we are speaking of 1940's upholstery fabric).
As Voltaire said "The art of medicine consists of amusing the patient . . ." And, my own beloved personal Physician has informed me that my condition requires the use of the Haslam Dressmaking System and my Bernina.
Come along with me as I work my way through the system, and, more than likely, invent a few new curse words along the way!
As Voltaire said "The art of medicine consists of amusing the patient . . ." And, my own beloved personal Physician has informed me that my condition requires the use of the Haslam Dressmaking System and my Bernina.
Come along with me as I work my way through the system, and, more than likely, invent a few new curse words along the way!
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